Tag Archives: ceramics

Piqhiqpaa? Piqhinngittuq.

Standard

ᐱᖅᓯᖅᐹ? (Blizzard; Is there a … ?)
ᐱᖅᓯᙱᑦᑐᖅ. (Blizzarding; It is not .)

When one kind of accidentally realizes they’re going to be away from home for 3 months, the option of trying to see one’s spouse occasionally comes to mind. Josh and I tossed around endless possibilities, trying to find what made most sense: Should he come to Toronto, about the halfway point of my travels, which would also give him the chance to see his cousins? Should he come to Ottawa, getting to stay with my family and one of his best buddies, but then would that be silly if I was going to be in Winnipeg (albeit very briefly) the next weekend? At the back of our minds in all these discussions was the dream of him visiting me in Rankin, but it remained firmly in dreamland. While I knew his intrigue for Nunavut was at least equal to my own, we also knew that flights to the Territories are prohibitively expensive at the best of times, let alone for a brief weekend visit.

Air miles, on the other hand? Apparently cheaper to get to Rankin than Ottawa.

And suddenly our complicated decision-making got a whole lot simpler!

His flight blew in Thursday night, just hours ahead of a blizzard that would shut down the town the next morning, leaving us with an open day to explore Rankin in the daylight. With sunset sweeping the skies by 2:30PM, extra daylight hours are not something to take for granted!

11:30AM

2:30PM

Josh’s welcome feast of leftover birthday kwak and maqtaq… I assured my host he most definitely would NOT mind leftovers, particularly of this variety!

Josh trying his hand at the ulu, under Aanak’s watchful eye

Aanak’s expert ulu wielding

Sadly leaving Josh at home, I blindly made my way to clinic through the gusting snow on Friday morning, only to be informed an hour later that we were now shut down. Apparently there’s an Environment Canada gnome who sits on high and makes the call of Blizzard or Non… and apparently he slept in on Friday. Gnome needs to get his act together!

As I struggled back home and was swept in through the door by the winds, I was greeted by my host and her friend having coffee. “Pshh” they scoffed. “This isn’t even a real blizzard. You can still see the car in the driveway.”
…I’d love to know what Toronto would think of this system.

Josh’s visit fortuitously fell on a Flea Market weekend, where the whole hamlet gathers at the arena to hawk traditional felted banners, sealskin gloves, hand-sewn parkas, and spring rolls from the Filipino family in town. We continued our shopping expedition by combing through every inch of the tiny but packed craft store Ivalu, stocked by artisans throughout Nunavut.

20171209_142322

We then holed up at The Matchbox Gallery for a few hours, hearing the fascinating history of the ceramics studio from the artist-teacher gallery owner Susan Shirley. After the original nickel mine closed in the 1960s, Matchbox was first opened as a government-run program to train ex-miners in a new craft: sculpting and ceramics. When government funding ran out, Jim and Sue Shirley took over the gallery and continued coordinating art classes and studio space for local artists, “preserv[ing] the reputation of Rankin as the only community producing Inuit fine-arts ceramics in the world.” You can find Rankin work at the National Gallery of Canada, the Winnipeg Art Gallery, and throughout Europe and the USA.



Sunday however, was my favourite day, when we finally did what I’ve been wanting to do since I first arrived: Venture out of town and onto the land.

Perfect weather for an adventure!

Sea ice waves still struggling to surge in the tide of Hudson Bay

Dabbing at Char River … inevitable when one of your hosts is 9 years old

Photos could not begin to capture the ethereal beauty of this deep port bay

Classic Canadian method of warming up frozen toes and fingers

This time, it was only a weekend. But we will continue to seek out those beautiful and wild places we may one day call home together!

*** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 ***

For anyone who read to the end of this most momentous post, congratulations!!! Thank you for sharing in saratreetravel’s ONE HUNDREDTH POST!!! The first person to post a comment containing a limerick or haiku about their favourite travel adventure will be contacted personally by saratree and receive a Northern prize (that may or may not be fermented walrus, depending on the rest of Calm Air’s passengers feel about that… but I have a feeling they’d be down).

*** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 *** 100 ***

Bellezza e quiete

Standard

I have been to Italy once before, an impetuous and unforgettable whirlwind week through Rome with my cousin. Since that time, I have been captivated by the country and the culture. However, I’ve always wondered if I’ve embellished my memories of Italy. After all, I was only there for a week, and furthermore, it was my first truly independent trip away from home. It couldn’t possibly be as enchanting, as mysterious, as indescribably beautiful as I remembered.

But as it turns out, it could be.

After two solid days of delayed flights, missed connections, and lost luggage, we landed in Naples and immediately boarded a bus south to Vietri sul Mare. We were travel worn, jet-lagged, and bewildered by trying to communicate in Italian (it is NOT just like French and Spanish, FYI!) Yet our first glimpse of the Italian coast captivated us as thoroughly as I had anticipated.

20140516-001608.jpg

Vietri is little more than a tumble of bright houses nestled in the mountains along the Amalfi Coast. It is renowned for its ceramics, which are evident everywhere from the tiles lining the boulevards to the ceramic pots crowning each block on the highway overpass. The air is lush and fresh with the smell of salt, jasmine blossoms, and freshly baked bread from the caffeterias in the town’s one piazza. Shops open late and close early – maybe because it wasn’t yet high season, or maybe because the town knows that they’ve been around for hundreds of years, and they’re not about to change their schedule drastically for tourists now.

The view from our apartment window:
20140515-234824.jpg

Ceramics, ceramics, everywhere…
20140515-234911.jpg

20140515-234920.jpg

The crazy ceramics warehouse? museum? shop? (we never quite figured out what it was!)
20140515-234930.jpg

20140515-234942.jpg

These little guys were always scurrying underfoot!
20140515-234841.jpg

The larger town of Salerno is just a bus ride away, and Josh and I dutifully went one day, and then wondered why we did. There is something ingrained in us that when there is a city centre, one needs to check it out! If there was something specific we were interested in seeing, that would have been a good idea. But I finally realised that city centers for the sake of city centers – shopping, different restaurants, the possibility of a show – don’t actually interest me that much.

For me, the beauty of Italy lies in its eternal beauty, in a golden landscape and an ingrained sense of reverence for all things lovely and elegant. It is a country where one can thoroughly absorb the culture merely by sitting still and quietly observing. “Doing Italy” can be accomplished by drinking espresso in the sunshine in the town’s piazza, talking about travel (in the most simple sentences possible!) with the bartender, and being silently overwhelmed by the ancient hills cradling you. It is accomplished by slipping through waves in the Mediterranean, then digging your toes in the sand as you review the Italian for “I would like” – necessary for ordering dinner that night; which, incidentally, is another way to “do Italy” …especially when a dinner location is chosen based on which waiter takes away the menus and simply tells you what to eat (“Pizza? Non! We are on al mare! You eat from el mare!”) and then proceeds to bring you roses as you dine, serenading you all the while.

That last one may be my favourite way to do Italy 🙂

20140515-234835.jpg

20140515-235208.jpg

20140515-235405.jpg

I’m sure there will be other towns where we will throw ourselves into the fantastic madness of the city. Vietri, however, was the perfect way to begin not only our time in Italy, but this trip in general. It reminded us that sometimes, the best way to travel is to simply sit still.

20140515-235353.jpg